Modelling has been an imperative role in the fashion industry since the mid 1800s, but does modelling affect society in a more impactful way than we may recognise?

Does a possible lack of representation in high fashion create a toxic ideology that seeps into society?

Plus size models were first represented by modelling agencies in the 1970s.

Prior to this, models freelanced directly with retailers, designers and magazines.

In the early 1920s, Lane Bryant initiated the sale of clothing 'for the stout women' (the sizes of ranging from a 38–56 inch bust line).

At a similar time, plus sized clothing sections were created in department stores.

It wasn't until the early 1990s that Emme, born Melissa Owens Miller, emerged as the first mainstream plus sized model.

She became prominent in 1989, and gained worldwide fame in 1994, as the first plus sized model chosen for The People Magazine's 50 Most Beautiful People.

However, it wasn’t until 2017 that Ashley Graham became the first plus-size model to ever appear on the cover of Vogue.

Despite the seemingly positive advancements in plus sized inclusivity, societal perceptions of plus sized bodies are still largely negative; a vast majority of models used are still slim and often underweight.

For instance, the average runway model has a body mass index of 16.

Victoria Secret model, Tyra Banks, who is 5’10, was once told that she had to weigh 113 pounds, which is over 25% less than the average British woman.

Additionally, despite a size UK 12 plus being considered plus sized, the national average size in the UK is a size 16.

Plus sized inclusivity in some brands has decreased.

M.M. LaFleur and Loft have reduced or eliminated their plus-size offerings and other brands, such as Old Navy, are removing extended sizes from their stores.

Another detrimental trend among many brands is Vanity sizing.

This is when clothing is labelled with a smaller size than what should match the measurements.

This is done with the intent to make people feel better about their bodies, but could be seen as a way to make people feel ashamed of buying a bigger size in other brands.

This leads people to continuing to buy from brands that use vanity sizing.

The persistent bias of the fashion industry against plus sized people is also reflected in society.

It has been recorded that over the past decade, discrimination against plus sized people has surged by around 66%.

This deleterious mind-set is further mirrored through the increase in liposuction and ozempic use around the world.

According to the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS), there were 1.9 million liposuction procedures recorded worldwide in 2021, which was a 25% increase from the preceding year.

Ozempic, although intended to treat type 2 diabetes and help with weight management for obesity cases, is being used by people who do not fit this criteria in order to lose weight fast, similarly to liposuction and various other procedures and drugs.

These 'easy' weight loss methods can become addictive and result in disorders that compromise both mental and physical well-being.

Perhaps, if the fashion industry were truly more inclusive, individuals would be proud of their bodies, potentially reducing the prevalence of eating disorders and the reliance on hazardous weight loss methods in society.

Written by Phoebe Neech.